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Tech notes:
Here is some info/suggestions based on some things we have
seen or been asked about over the years of selling these
starters.
The two most common
concerns with the starter seem to be controller related. Most
common question is the LED on the controller just blinks and
starter is dead. This is a lack of signal issue, the fix is to
open the end points on the channel the switch is assigned to.
Some radios you will need to reverse the channel the switch is
assigned to. The second most common question is the starter
quits after a few seconds. This is normal, it is a safety
feature built into the controller. The controller will only
activate for about 2 seconds. This is so the starter and engine
are not both running at the same time. But if the switch is
turned on while the engine is running the controller will engage
the starter again (bearings and gears are available below).
- Use a good sticky
grease, wheel bearing grease is adequate. To much will make a
huge mess. The idea is to add a little protection to the gear
teeth so they do not chip. We have seen folks use so much
grease it collects under the hall sensor and stops ignition.
Use just enough to wet the gears.
- Do not use a 4
cell Lipo. The controller can handle the watts of a 4 cell but
the starter motor will burn up, fairly quickly. Use a 3 cell
Lipo or LiFe pack. Anything that can deliver bursts of 60
Amps.
- The magnets on
the starter motor are pretty strong. They can pick up washers,
screws, etc off your bench. Then once the motor is activated
the debris can damage the starter motor (spares available
below). So work on a clean surface and check out your work
when done.
- A hammer is not a
recommended tool for installing a starter. Parts are a pretty
solid fit with the oneway bearing being the tightest. On DLE engines
you might find a ton of lock-tight around the crank, scrape or
sanding this off will help with parts fitment.
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